Jan 8, 2013

Islands, beaches, islands, beaches

Langkawi is probably the most well-known beach destination in Malaysia, so why did we decide we didn't want to go there? Because Lankawi is probably the most well-known beach destination in Malaysia. Therefore, after spending a night in an idyllic little village, we headed for something entirely different. A Beach. From Kota Bharu we took a bus to Kuala Besut from where you can take a ferry to the Perenthian Islands.

Traveling with a family? Perenthian Besar it is. Travel with a backpack?
Perenthian Kecil will probably be your destination.

We chose what should be the backpacker island and picked Long Beach as our destination. According to the Lonely Planet, the "quiet islands" are a "tropical paradise". I wouldn't agree. Perhaps my stay at the Andaman Islands in India had spoiled me, because the beach didn't impress me and I wouldn't call the islands quiet at all (even though it was no where near a Thai-style party scene).


Well, it wasn't all bad.

The islands did, however, have another sort of paradise to offer in the wonderful world beneath the surface. Snorkeling in the cristal clear water with sharks and giant sea turtles, I gave a little peace of my heart to the islands. Swimming next to a sea turtle as big as me, I was ecstatic!


If a sea turtle isn't your cup of tee, how about this fellow? Mind I tell you, this guy is huge. Very big.
I hadn't seen one of these before. Don't need to see one again. Ever.

Moving on, we spent a few days exploring the islands, the animals, the beer and the beach before it was time to pack our bags and leave for yet another beach. Another bus ride away lay Cherating and I instantly dig the place. Unfortunately we arrive too late to hit the waves, the surfing season is over, but there's still some cool things going on. There are more locals then travellers, there's art and music and the vibe is relaxed and hip. There's really not anything to see here, people come to surf and surf only. The beach is dull and the main street quiet, but nonetheless Cherating is my favorite stop in Malaysia. Why, I think to myself. Because it's real. It's not a tourist drag, it's a real place with real people.


Locals take on Adele's hit Someone Like You.

Unfortunately, we only have time to stay a couple of nights and just when we have bought our bustickets, a local with a guitar in hand approaches us. It's his birthday and he and some friends are going to the beach to drink Jack Daniels. Would we like to come along? Busticket in hand we have no choice but to wish him happy birthday and get on the bus. What a shame. We hook up with two german girls for the bus ride, heading for Tioman Island.

Now, for the less traveled, traveling is not always fun. It's not always a holiday. It can be ruff, exhausting and sometimes you may even question your sanity. This was one of those times.


Arriving in the middle of the night, tired and hungry, we somehow find our way to the ferry station.
Hardly any sleep on the comfortable tables I try to remind myself, why is it I love traveling again?


We don't see much of Mersing, the ferry town taking backpackers to and fro the island. The first ferry that leaves in the morning, we're on it. When we arrive on the island, we realise there is a problem. Almost every room is full. There's a public holiday coming up and we are not the only ones to celebrate it on Tioman. Fortunately, we find an affordable little hut. Would we have arrived a day or two later, there would have been no room, people were even sleeping on the beach! (Not a bad option I suppose.)

Next it's time to do what we came here for. Diving. I've been waiting to take my diving license and explore the big blue sea for a long time and we have heard that diving in Tioman is good. Really good. What I hadn't accounted for is that the asthma I have makes diving dangerous.


One of the many boats taking people diving. Unfortunately, I'm not taking that boat.

I could lie and say I don't have asthma, but do I really want to take the risk before consulting a doctor? No, I don't. I'm bummed, but realistically I can't do anything about this and so, instead, we hit the beach, go snorkeling and drink cheap beer.


It's hard to be bummed when you have this!


Thought getting a drink would be hard in muslim Malaysia? Think again!




Okay, so you get a fine equivalent to about 1200 euro or get whipped (no more then 6 strokes) for selling, buying or drinking alcohol. I guess that's the price you pay for destroying your liver.



Tioman is different. There are countless little diving shops on the one street we walk up and down during our stay and we quickly become part of the little community on the island, mostly consisting of all the dive instructors that live on the island. It's relaxed, it's small and it's fun. It's the perfect place to end our stay in Malaysia.




On our last night, there's a big party. Everyone (probably everyone on the entire island) gather in a tiny little bar. There's a man with a guitar, there's beer, there's an australian woman talking about how people in Finland are either trolls or elves, there's more beer, there's a fight, there's laughing, there's crying, there's everything we could've ever hoped for.



The next day we reluctantly pack our bags. The party has taken it's toll, we're tired and we don't want to leave the little island.




However, our three weeks in Malaysia is up and we are planning to take a bus to Singapore the same day. We drag ourselves, and our bags, to the pier and as the boat leaves, we wave goodbye to the beaches, the sand, the snorkeling, the sleeping in the sun, the wading in the sea. Singapore will be our last stop before flying home, so it is with a bit of sadness that we navigate around the busstation to find a bus that will take us just a little bit closer to home. Next up, Singapore!

Goodbye Tioman!

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