Aug 11, 2012

From 1,5 million to 100, KL to Kota Bharu

After over three months in India, I must admit stepping out from the airport in Kuala Lumpur was a bit of a relief. Kuala Lumpur (KL), the capital of Malaysia, has a population of about 1,5 million and as hardened travelers we were prepared for the worst, but oh no, Malaysia was a different deal. Finding the right bus in India was not always an easy task, but here we got tickets and found the right bus without trouble as the buses were LABELED and people were HELPING us to find the right bus. The bus was AIRCONDITIONED and the seats were SPACIOUS and CLEAN. What was this place? Had we just spent three months on a different planet? It seemed as if Malaysia would be a walk in the park compared to the slippery rock climbing of India.
After about an hour on the bus and the minor hassle of finding a place to stay, we found ourselves in what seemed to be a five star guesthouse; The Green Hut. The room had ALL of the following:

  • Bathroom INSIDE the room
  • Hot water
  • Mirror
  • AC
  • WiFi
  • White and clean sheets


We spent the previous night "In Jail" in Calcutta, the room in KL was a nice  change!


Matt only had about 20 hours in Malaysia, so we would have to get our hands dirty right away. One stop on every traveler’s checklist in KL is the Petronas Twin Towers. We went, we saw, we took pictures and we left. Moving on, during the day we also made it to China Town and to the biggest outdoor aviary in Asia (where we got rained on, badly) and got some tasty Chinese food from one of the countless restaurants around the corner from our guesthouse.

The famous towers, there they are!

Unfortunately, that’s about all you have time for when spending ONE DAY in a country. Matt flew back to the US while I was staying in KL to await the arrival of my friend Niina, who had been traveling all over South East Asia the last few months. I spent the next day with my newly purchased Lonely Planet and much beloved WiFi, trying to figure out our route for the next few weeks. Niina arrived later that day and after a few beers and sharing travel stories from the last few months, we finally came up with a brilliant plan at 2 am. The weather forecast showed nothing but thunder and rain the following days in KL, so the next day we would head northeast to Kota Bharu from were we would make our way down the coast to Singapore.


From KL we headed to Kota Bharu and hit all the stars in Malaysia before our last stop in Singapore

So early next morning we got bus tickets on an overnight bus. Even if buses in Malaysia operate fairly well, there is always room for confusion. After a chaotic hour or so of waiting for the right bus to arrive, having no idea when or where it would, we finally managed to get on it. Even the creepy guy that had spent the last hour getting closer and closer to Niina, drawn in by her red hear, repeating “hello” about 87 times and giving us thumbs up, was seated in the back of the bus a safe distans away from our seats in the very front.
Seven smooth hours later we found ourselves in Kota Bharu at about 5 am, creepy bus station guy next to us. Great. Thankfully, a hostel we could escape to was close by and we even got a good deal for a few hours of sleep and a shower. There where two reason why we had come to Kota Bharu:
  1. from here you can make your way down the coast and stop in various beach destinations, and
  2. we had heard there might be a possibility to stay at a local village nearby.

We were planning to do both, so the next day we walked over to the tourist information and got some fantastic help from a happy Malaysian man who greeted us in Finnish when he heard where we were from. Only a few hours later, bags packed, we were heading to a small village just outside Kota Bharu with our host.

Our pretty host with her mother.

The village was situated on a small island, which meant getting on a tiny boat that would take us across the brownish waters. We learned that the village had about 40 houses inhabited by around 100 people and that it survived mainly by fishing. There was one school on the island, but older kids had to go to another island for school. We also realized that our host probably had the most of the money in the village. Her house was big, clean and bright and during my many months of traveling, this was the nicest place I ever stayed at. Chickens and goats were wandering around the village accompanied by 7-year olds on motorbikes and an ape on a leash.

Main road

We walked around the island and had some cute kids entertain us before walking back to the house and getting a Malay cooked dinner of rise, chicken and dried fish. Our hostess told us about the simple life in the village and said she couldn't imagine a safer place; she never locks the door to her house.


Pouring sand from the ground with a smashed coconut in to a bucket is a fun game!

The "simple life" intrigues me, but unfortunately we could only stay for one night. The next day we woke up early to make our way back into town and take the bus to our next destination. After months in India, I was in need of a vacation and that's what Malaysia was all about. Next stop: turquoise water and giant sea turtles!

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